Ruggedly handsome with wild surf beaches, penguins, seal colonies and koala reserves, it is impossible to visit Phillip Island and not fall a little bit in love.

After flopping about for two days in a breathtaking natural setting, wandering from a seal cruise to a helicopter ride, chocolate factory to gourmet meal, I de-stressed into a gurgling, captivated nine-year-old bundle of wants and desires.

When the tourist brochure indicated that the island had something for everyone, I didn't realise how precisely it meant what it said. Even the petrol head has a place, for the island is as celebrated for the Motorcycle Grand Prix held here as for its penguin parade. Little wonder that the island's population quadruples every summer.

Originally inhabited by the Bunurong people, the island is now colonised by little penguins, the world's smallest, who waddle up the beach to their burrows in the dunes each night. It is for these beguiling creatures that thousands of spectators visit the island, beginning their exploration at the penguin complex. After a brief stop at the souvenir shop with its glossy memorabilia, the beach, eclectic with life and colour, comes as something of a transformation.

Seated in a concrete amphitheatre, we wait with a child's eagerness for the sun to fall and the little fellas to emerge from the bay. Photography is not permitted. We are repeatedly reminded that we are the visitors, not the penguins, so respect is key.

Penguins’ abode
Suddenly, my friend gives a gentle nudge as if to wake me. 'Huk-huk' sounds emanate from a horde of penguins making their way up the beach in pairs, following their usual night path to reach their burrows.

Watching them waddle forth, pausing to preen their feathers or call out to other penguins is not unlike a colony of nuns on the run, some falling over in their hurry to get ahead, others heading to their burrows with missionary zeal in pursuit of their mates — is a sensation as sweet and heavy as a drug.

A nature enthusiast beside me cheers on a wee penguin who appears to have lost his mate, and adds with a knowing smirk, "They use a different call when advertising for a mate or summoning their chicks…" Sadly I can't hear the rest of what he says, for all conversation is drowned out when the penguins take over.

Like most travellers who come here, I may have come for the penguins, too, but end up staying for a lot more — including trout fishing and a walk through the koala conservation centre to spend time photographing sleeping koalas in their natural habitat. At Churchill Island Heritage Farm, I wander around milking cows and feeding sheep during allotted time slots. Apart from breathtaking views and places to laze around in the breeze, it is enticing to find that the island has a culture of doing and being and not of examining artifacts.

It's difficult to not rave about the Seal Rocks Eco Cruise, which sets you among the largest Australian fur seal colony. Being so close to thousands of seals unites everyone on the boat.

Even couples emerge from their private love pods to slap strangers on the back. Everyone develops a newfound zeal for life and nature as they watch pup seals being born, cow seals feeding their pups, bull seals mating and defending their territory, and young seals swimming inquisitively around the boat. As I watch this, I find myself mentally agreeing with Frank Lloyd Wright who famously said, "I believe in God, only, I spell it nature."

More than wildlife
But to experience only the abundant vista of wildlife at Phillip Island is to experience just one half of the island. Panny's Chocolate Factory, like most other attractions here, is focused upon making dreams come true. Legend has it that even death-metal bikers who arrived on the island for the Motorcycle Grand Prix have been found melting into a gooey crepe in front of the chocolate waterfall. What started out as a jaunt quickly becomes something of a pilgrimage, as we stand meditatively in front of machines that dispense chocolate, watching the process of chocolate making, transfixed. Panny's is possibly the only place in the world proffering wasabi and vegemite-flavored chocolate bars.
Next on the agenda is Phillip Island's attraction, A Maze N Things. It may look and feel like a museum for children; but it's as much for adults. Puzzles, giant mazes, optical illusions and a minigolf course characterise this space. Geoff Moed the proprietor says regretfully, "Indian families often visit with just an hour to spare before the penguin parade and I wonder why. A trip here should be more than just another item to be ticked off on the itinerary. A full morning is what you need to spend here if you really want to experience something that makes you rethink your perspective on life and living. You can shrink to half your size, get lost in a mirror maze or simulate the experience of falling off a cliff."

Going the Indian curry way
Engaging in an array of activities, most of which rise up in opposition against a culture of speed and global uniformity, has a pleasurable side effect. We are ravenous by the end of it. But on an island where fish is aplenty and a chocolate factory squats near at hand, our needs are readily met. Harry's on the Esplanade is famous for fish brought in straight from the boats at San Remo to be whipped into all kinds of delicacies. The restaurant bends over backward to do what this island does best — be all things to all men. Harry Schmidt, the owner acknowledges this ability in his heavy German accent, "Recently, we began including curry on our extensive menu to cater to a growing travelling Indian community. "

Suddenly it dawns on me why exactly I want to settle here with the retirees who've made this balmy island home. More than the penguins, I see an island where hope, optimism, and the desire to make dreams come true - be it through its chocolate factories, brightly-colored museums, enthusiastic people, and sensitivity to animals — is still going strong.